Kerala Backwaters

The Kerala Backwaters

The backwaters are a 900-km network of brackish lagoons, lakes, canals and rivers running parallel to the Arabian Sea coast in Kerala. The centrepiece is Vembanad Lake — India's longest lake at 96 km — connecting the towns of Alleppey, Kumarakom and Kochi.

The houseboat experience

The traditional kettuvallam was once a 100-foot rice barge; today they're luxury houseboats with 1-3 bedrooms, sundeck, dining area, and a personal chef. Cruise from morning to mid-afternoon, anchor for the night in a quiet stretch, watch fireflies in the palms after dark, wake to mist over the water. The food is exceptional — fresh karimeen-pollichathu, coconut-based avial, and locally-grown red rice.

Where to base yourself

Alleppey is the most popular launch point, with the largest fleet. Kumarakom is quieter and more upscale, on the eastern bank of Vembanad with bird sanctuaries nearby. Both are 90 minutes from Cochin airport.

When to go

October to March is peak season — clear skies, gentle weather, water level high. Avoid June-September (monsoon — rain is constant, though Ayurveda treatments are at their most effective).